In Karl's recent letter from Lucknow, he shared his discoveries of two places of interest: the Residency and the Palace of Lights.
He described the Palace of Lights as “an immense building in which are a great many Hindu gods and thousands of lamps, which are lit up annually for two or three days, during some Hindu festival, at a cost of three lakhs of rupees, a sum equal to $100,000.”
Interestingly, the British and Europeans coined the name "Palace of Lights" when describing the congregation hall at Chhota Imambara. The hall is full of Belgian chandeliers and glass lamps. This Imambara, meaning "house of Imam," was commissioned by the Nawabs, the Muslim rulers of this region. Imambaras, primarily used for Shia Muslim religious ceremonies, also served as the final resting place for the Nawab of Awadh and his mother, who is buried beside him.
Lucknow, often called the city of Imambaras, reflects its historical significance as the capital of the Nawabs during the 18th and 19th centuries. Imambaras come in various sizes, typically including a mosque, assembly halls, separate prayer areas for men and women, and beautifully manicured gardens.
Two famous Imambaras grace Lucknow's landscape: the Chhota Imambara, affectionately known as the Palace of Lights, and Bara (big) Imambara.
The Bara Imambara, much like the Ramnagar Palace, showcases the Mughal architectural style, most famously exemplified by the Taj Mahal. Built in 1784, it's renowned for having the world's largest arched hall built without any external support, such as wooden, iron, or stone beams. The Nawab initiated its construction as a response to a famine, aiming to provide employment and food to those in need. Over 20,000 people worked tirelessly for 11 years to complete the Imambara, which boasts 1024 entrance doors but only 2 exit doors. I was about to make an entrance!
A significant portion of the architecture from that era is attributed to the French adventurer Claude Martin. Born in Lyon, France, in 1735, Martin embarked on his military career at sixteen, enlisting in the French army and eventually arriving in India. After the Siege of Pondicherry (the capital of French India) he swiftly changed his allegiance and joined the English. Martin was a competent soldier but also skilled as a surveyor and captured the attention of the Nawab. Many buildings along the riverbanks bear Martin's influence, blending traditional Mughal design with European elements.
Martin constructed his residence, naming it Constatia, although he passed away before its completion. Renowned as the richest Frenchman in India, he left a lasting legacy by stipulating in his will that his estate should fund the construction of three schools in his memory, all named La Martiniere. These schools were to be established in Lucknow, Calcutta, and his birthplace, Lyon, France.
La Martiniere College of Lucknow was founded in 1845, welcoming its first cohort of students that year. In a remarkable historical twist, the college was evacuated to the Residency in 1857 for safety during a tumultuous period. Surprisingly, the college's staff and students valiantly defended the Residency for nearly five months. Today, the college stands as a respected educational institution, and I went for a visit.
And so, our journey through Lucknow concludes..
BONUS:
July 30, 2023, was the 201st birth anniversary of Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab who ruled the state of Awadh with Lucknow as its capital.
Nawab Wajid Ali Shah reigned as king for nine years. Still, after the first war of independence in 1857, he was no longer protected by the East India Company and at the age of 34 he was exiled by the British to Garden Reach, a suburb of Kolkata (then Calcutta). Ironically, Garden Reach is where Karl commenced his travels in India after arriving there by boat from Australia.
The Nawab received a generous pension, lived exceptionally well and became a great patron of singers, musicians, dancers and artists for the 31 years of his exile. Of note, he introduced Kathak, a primary form of classical Indian dance, to the masses that was previously only performed as part of temple rituals.
Nawab Wajid Ali Shah was credited for creating two forms of Kathak, Raas, the traditional form and Rahas, a more playful dance. The latter was stories with scenes of love and drama, choreographed to local music with graceful gestures, foot movements and lots of expression. Historically, the dancing told stories of the “Kathakars” who wandered North India, sharing legends and myths through song and dance.
I was able to attend a Kathak performance, and it was mesmerizing.
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