Santa comes to Varanasi- Karl Chronicles Post #136

Upon returning to Nadesar Palace from my visit to Ramnagar Fort, I took some time to freshen up before indulging in an early dinner. I treated myself to Nimona, a traditional Varanasi curry dish made with local fresh green peas and potatoes. I know it doesn’t sound enticing, dear Reader, but I assure you it was utterly delicious, so much so I ordered it for my supper every evening in Varanasi and may have convinced the chef to share his recipe. 

After dinner, I strolled around the palace grounds, and one of my stops was to visit Naseem, the carriage driver, and his horses.

As the evening sun began to set, the festive spirit of Christmas Eve enveloped the atmosphere. The palace gardens came alive with scheduled entertainment: traditional local musicians and dancers, merry holiday tunes, and even the possibility of a surprise visit from Santa Claus. Finding a comfortable spot on a patio lounger, I had a perfect view of the upcoming performances, including the anticipated appearance of the man in the red suit.

Now, I must admit, Christmas has never been a particularly important holiday for me for a host of reasons but primarily related to the association with mass consumerism. However, that particular Christmas Eve in Varanasi was one of the most heartwarming and unforgettable I had ever experienced. The celebration felt genuine, devoid of the commercial trappings that often overshadow the true essence of the holiday.

Amidst revelling in being in such a historically significant and beautiful location during this festive season, I was approached by Mr. Nagar, the General Manager and epitome of hospitality. He wanted to ensure I was enjoying my stay and had everything I needed. During this conversation, he shared an exciting piece of news: the Maharaja was returning to Varanasi from Delhi tomorrow, Christmas Day. And, if I was interested, he had agreed to allow me to meet him after breakfast.

Yes, dear reader, you can imagine my astonishment – Santa Claus and news of a visit with the Maharaja. Perhaps there are miracles at Christmas!

As I joined the other guests for breakfast the following morning, there was an undeniable sense of excitement in the air. It seemed that the news of my audience with the Maharaja had spread, creating an atmosphere of giddiness among everyone. After my meal, I returned to my room to gather the materials I had prepared for the Maharaja – documents and photographs, including a package intended for him that had journeyed through various places in Varanasi. With everything in hand, I made my way to the hotel's front entrance.

As if on cue, a golf cart with three rows pulled up. I hopped into the middle row while Mr. Nagar took the last one. We set off from the palace, making our way to the building on the estate where the Maharaja's office was located. At that moment, despite the casual mode of transportation, I couldn't help but feel like I was travelling in a convoy of Range Rovers as depicted in movies with Ambassadors or other senior politicians.

Upon arriving, Mr. Nagar escorted me to the Maharaja's office. And there, before me, was His Highness Anant Naryan Singh, the Maharaja himself. I couldn't suppress a fleeting thought about Karl's disappointment with the Maharaja's "ordinary clothes" during their meeting. This casualness seemed to run in the family, as HH Anant Naryan Singh was dressed in standard Western attire – pants and a sweater. While I hadn't expected elaborate traditional clothing, a small part had secretly hoped for it.

After the general manager took his leave, our conversation began. I shared the documents and images I had brought – including his great-grandfather's signature and the Naryan seal from Karl's autograph book. I also recounted the article that captured Karl's meeting with the Maharaja many years ago. HH Anant Naryan Singh expressed interest in seeing more photographs, so I promptly brought out my laptop to showcase images of Karl and the various places I had visited. His hope to see a photograph of Karl alongside his great-grandfather was met with regret, as I explained that candid shots were scarce back then requiring a photography studio. As our conversation reached its natural conclusion, HH Anant Naryan Singh expressed interest in receiving electronic copies about Karl's time at Ramnagar Fort, and I assured him it would be sent via Mr. Nagar's email.

After approximately 25 minutes, the General Manager returned, and I mustered the courage to request a photo together. Recognizing that a selfie wouldn't be appropriate for such a moment, Mr Nagar kindly stepped in as our photographer. As the photo was taken, I couldn't help but feel a sense of elation, a smile stretching from ear to ear. My gratitude towards the Maharaja was heartfelt.

And there it was, dear reader – an encounter that felt like a chapter out of a storybook, where reality and history converged. Just like that, I met the Maharaja in the most unexpected yet extraordinary turn of events. 


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